Pecs is located in the south-east of Hungary.
It was an Autumn night full of a crisp chill.With a slight atmospheric mist in the air shrouding the baroque street lamps.Giving the place an oldie world romantic feel.With the smell of falling leaves,and the crunching noise as we walked on them,along with little twigs and chestnuts upon the dry cobbled road.
From just above the
Szechenyi ter(square).Which is the heart of the
Belvaros(inner(old)town),and contains Pecs's 'Turkish' symbol.The big Mosque church
positioned at the top of it.
We started our walk along
Kaptalan utca((the street of museums)(Including the work of artists,such as
Zsolnay and
Vasarely).We followed this little bendy street down and happened upon an old fashioned
Borozo(wine drinking house),in other words a rough and ready pub.Unlike in England where you possibly wouldn't enter.Though that would depend upon your interests in extreme sports or not.However this little drinking establishment was rather popular especially with the younger folk.
Pecs has a large youthful population.Due to the presence of the University(which was the 1st in Hungary in 1367),and the University Hospital.
After this interlude.We found ourselves on a pedestrianised chestnut tree lined,almost boulevard wide-like path.Leading to the wide open
Dom ter(cathedral square).The
Szekesegyhaz(cathedral),a massive light brown stoned,4 towered neo-Romanesque building adorned the top of it.On the left the Bishops palace and on the right the
Korsos sirkamra(jug mausoleum).A 4th Century roman tomb site.So called due to the paintings inside of vines and a large drinking cup.
We meandered up to the big iron gates,guarding the cathedrals equally large doors.The gates ironwork was covered in vines,showing the holy importance for wine in this part of the country.We were hesitating about entering,via opening these basketball ring high heavy wooden doors.Because we could hear that there was a service going on and we didn't want to noisily gate crash into the middle of it.When out of nowhere a woman materialised and assured us that it would be okay.This intervention,seemed to be a good sign.So with a renewed faith we boldly opened the squeaky looking doors.Surprisingly not even a single squeak.We then had to gingerly open yet another door and creep into a full house and standing room only.
Standing with our backs against the wall and next to an old man,who also appeared to have sinned and turned up late.Facing the inner expanse and a row of thick white stone columns stretching high up to the ceiling.Where we gazed upon the bright pictures of the apostles,saints and Latin lettering.Upon the ceiling and running along the top of the walls adjoining it.Being Catholic,the place was naturally shiny and full of gold.
Coming from the dark side,I'm a protestant.It was interesting to see after the service finished.Everybody shaking hands with one another,sadly missing in our churches.Then lining up to take the holy bread,and finally exiting but just before at the holy water well.Stopping to cross themselves with it,quickly half kneeling and praying.
After making our prayers,we retired cleansed.To be greeted with a lit up panorama of Pecs from this viewpoint on top of the hill.With nothing blocking our view across the downward sloping expanse of the square.
Our lazy stroll led us to
Szent Istvan ter(Saint Stephens square).Tree lined and with a stone fountain in the middle,pouring water into its chain of pools circling it.Complete with criss crossing paths,wooden benches and flower beds.
At the top right hand corner is the remains of a 4th Century Roman Christian tomb site.Including the foundations of a little chapel in the shape of an iron,only with the peak rounded off.At the base,is the entrance to the underground tombs.
Continuing into
Ferencesek utcaja.Which is a lovingly restored lightly cobbled pedestrianised street.With old styled buildings full of modern little shop windows and cafe bars.Also little courtyards leading you to other tempting cash depositing enterprises.This being nighttime is my favourite to go shopping,but not my wife's, as the shops were closed.
Passing by the ruins of a little Turkish bath house.Which contained 2 rooms,with stone benches skirting the inside of the walls.In the centre of one of them was the base from where the steam would have come from.While in the other was now a working drinking water fountain.
We strolled up to
Jokai Mor ter.Most streets in Hungary are named after famous Hungarians.Namely Kings,writers and poets.The main attraction here is a big American/Mexican bar and restaurant.
Returning back to the
Szechenyi ter,but at the bottom of it.Which gives you a panoramic view of the entire square.White baroque buildings,including the magnificent looking county hall and a big cafe bar.Though especially the majestic Mosque church.This was in the Turkish time a mosque,afterwards fortunately not destroyed but converted into a church,which duty it still performs.It was all lit up,illuminating the big light green dome.It still has all the old brown
brickwork and the Islamic geometric designs on its windows.The cherry on top being the Turkish crescent moon on the spire,with a Christian cross plonked on it.
Making our way to the other side,passing the statue celebrating
Hunyadi Janos.Looking very heroic upon a proud and graceful horse.He was responsible for thrashing the Turks in 1456 at
Nandorfehervar.Then an important city within Hungary,but now Belgrade in Serbia.This was obviously before they came back with a vengeance 70 years later to conquer a big part of Hungary.
A short walk down from this square is the
Zsolnay kut(fountain).With golden green bull heads spouting forth water into its pools below.
However we continued along
Kiraly utca (Kings street).Another restored pedestrianised
street,full of shops and restaurants.Though these tend to be on the larger side,more expensive and appear to have more of an American feel to them.Of course there's the ubiquitous Irish pub.
However we had reached the purpose of our walk and what we had been hungrily searching for.Very good,make that homemade Hungarian food,cheap and within a traditional place.We found
Istvan pince(Steve's cellar),on a little street down some steps off
Kiraly utca.It's sparsely decorated with stone walls,wooden tables and benches.It was rough,ready and friendly.With a good atmosphere of old men drinking
Palinka(a very strong Hungarian spirit),beer and in heated discussions.
My wife going for massive slabs of turkey breast fried in breadcrumbs,complete with an equally sizable portion of chips and veg.Complimented with a glass of local red wine.I however had the
Gulyas soup(goulash).In Hungary its a soup not a stew as in England.Which came with doorstep chunks of bread and spicy dry red paprika to squeeze into the soup.This livens it up somewhat.All welcomely washed down with a lovely cold local beer.
Another favourite place of mine is the
Dom restaurant and bar.Located at the top of
Szechenyi ter.Serving delicious
Tejfeles-citromos-tarkonyos borjuleves(creamy lemon tarragon veal ragu soup).
Pecs web site
